Wednesday, October 14, 2015

TRAVEL 36 minutes in.... Aubigny-en-Plaine

4 p.m.
The Wash-House
Jump right into the village's history at the famous Communal Wash-House. You’ll join stray cats and washerwomen at the wash-house itself, a mishmash of styles from Art Nouveau to neo-Gothic. The nearby cemetery, covering four city blocks, became the final resting place for presidents and generals, poets and businessmen. Conversation among the washerwomen centres on such matters of moment as the winner of this year's Prix Goncourt and the price of turnips.

4.20 p.m.
2. The Boulodrome
As the sun sets in the west, the locals stagger down to the Boulodrome on the road leading to and from CĂ®teaux. They carry with them flasks of aperitivo, a casual evening drink. Why not join the suave men with white hair and pressed suits inside the sweeping corner space, lined with warm wood and decorated with framed photos and artifacts that illustrate its long affiliation with racecar driving. Or opt for a plastic chair on the sprawling terrace. Either way, you’ll be joining a 150-year lineage of patrons who have included politicians, actors, artists and writers, including Jorge Luis Borges, who lived just down the street.
While the aficionados are thus engaged, this is as good a time as any to burgle some of the rundown houses adorning the high street.

4.36 p.m.
Time to say goodbye to Aubigny-en-Plaine, hoping that none of the residents can read English.

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